HOW TO: Deconstructed Chignon

hi everyone today we’re gonna create a
soft deconstructed Shenyang it’s going
to be really beautiful and whimsical
what I love about this style is that
it’s really simple and easy but it looks
like it took a lot more time to create
it’s especially great for finer hair
types so with our client we started out
by prepping her hair with thickening
mousse
gave her a nice blowout and then prepped
her with a 1 and a quarter inch curling
iron I used our diamond deflect spray
which I’m going to show you guys a
little bit more as we get into it so
let’s go ahead and get started I get a
lot of requests from clients to utilize
the center part with an up style so
we’re gonna do that today
I’m gonna go a couple inches back from
her front hairline and I’m gonna create
a diagonal back parting that goes to
right behind the ear this is going to
change depending on your clients hair
density and whether they have a lot of
face framing layers so I’m just gonna go
ahead and pin that out of the way and
I’m going to do the same thing on the
opposite side
now that my front sections are pinned
away I’m gonna create a circular section
right through the crown this is
generally where I get a lot of requests
for some volume and with finer hair
types I don’t like to do a lot of
teasing because it really creates almost
kind of a messy finish instead of it
looking soft and natural I’m going to
use a tiny bit of my working wax just
enough to go on the end of my nail and
I’m going to mull safai it in my
fingertips I’m just gonna go through and
break up through the top this is going
to give her some nice texture and shine
and a little bit of separation now I’m
going to create a low loose ponytail
with that crown section that I have
sectioned off
a good tip is to not make your ponytail
holder too tight or else it’s going to
be difficult to pull and actually fluff
up this top part you’ll end up pulling
too much hair and then it’s going to
give you a look that you’re not happy
with so now I’m going to invert my
ponytail so I’m just gonna create a
little separation equal sides and I’m
gonna flip the tail right over the top I
also like to reach the rubberband
afterwards because it already helps to
create this nice volume that we got here
I’m going to hold my ponytail at the
bottom nice and loosely I don’t want to
hold it too tight or else it’s gonna be
difficult for me to pinch and pull but
I’m gonna create some nice texture
through the top this is creating that
volume without having to put a lot of
teasing into her hair and it’s also
really nice to be able to just take this
out your clients are gonna be brushing
through their hair forever with a little
bit more working wax on just my
fingertips I’m gonna take the remaining
amount of her hair I’m gonna work it
right through the ends and that’s gonna
help me give some nice shine and
separation again with all the remaining
hair on the bottom I’m gonna combine it
all together again making another low
ponytail
keeping in mind we want to keep this
loose so that nothing looks too tight or
pulled I love using ponytail holders
because it secures everything but it
still keeps everything looking nice and
romantic I’m again gonna create another
little inverted ponytail so I’m gonna
take my fingers through the center and
then just flip that right over the top
now go back in pinch and pull until I
create that volume that is desired so
with the remaining hair at the bottom
I’m going to use our diamond deflect
spray because it has a really nice low
hold with a lot of shine it’s really
gonna accentuate her hair color and give
me a little bit of control
I’m going to go in and just create a
really soft amount of backcombing I’m
really just doing a little bit of
superficial back combing so I’m not
pushing my comb all the way through and
then I’m gonna pull this whole ponytail
up and create my Shenyang I’m gonna
secure each side of the Shenyang with a
bobby pin I don’t like to open the bobby
pins as I put them into the hair I
almost just weave them in that way you
don’t grab too much hair and it starts
to slip back out so without opening the
bobby pin I like to use the longer arm
to go in and just pick up a couple of
pieces of hair almost like I’m weaving
it and that gives me ultimate security
without picking up too much for the
bobby pin to hold once you have your
Shinya on into place I like to go back
in with the diamond to flex spray just
to give it a little bit of extra hold
without looking overworked I like using
a soft hold hairspray because it gives
me that control I need without making
the hair look too overdone now that we
have the back secured I’m going to work
on these front sections for clients that
want a softer look with a little bit
more whimsy I like to take these front
sections and instead of forcefully
pulling out pieces sometimes they can
look a little bit random I like to just
shake out this front section so that
some pieces fall naturally
I’m gonna again just use a tiny bit of
working wax to give me some control but
some pliable movement and I’m gonna
start twisting back away from the face a
good tip is to not make your twist too
tight you don’t want this really extreme
or else it’s going to be hard to
deconstruct it and fluff it out
so just softly twist back away from the
face starting at the bottom I’m gonna
fluff my twists back out so I’m just
pulling at really just the tiniest outer
strands to create a little bit more
volume
a good tip for finer hair types or if
you’re working with smaller sections to
make them look fuller I like to go in
and pull the very last piece of hair so
just the tiniest bit and Roush my
section up to give it a little bit more
bulk I’m going to cross this over in the
back and pin it right on top of my
Shenyang again I’m gonna take my bobby
pin and I’m just going to weave in that
section now I’m going to repeat the same
process on the opposite side
so again twisting back away from the
face always helps bring the style up
instead of having it droop too much
one big thing that I like to do when
creating a really soft whimsical up
style is I don’t like to do too much of
my perfecting while I’m creating my
final look I like to wait until
everything is secured and then go back
through and perfect it with the
remaining pieces that I have hanging I
like to use a little bit of the working
wax just to define them and give them a
little bit of control this is a nice
option instead of using hairspray
because it stays pliable throughout the
day
I love the working wax for these front
pieces because it really helps with any
little frizz ease when detailing the
hair I like to utilize my styling pins
because they’ll hold everything softly
in place without making it look too
tight or too pulled so how I like to put
them into the hair is I start with the
legs pointed upwards and then I just
loop back over the top and then secure
it down this will hide the pin also
creating a nice soft hold now that we’ve
completed the style one of my favorite
tricks is to use a kabuki brush and my
finishing spray to help smooth out any
of these little flyaways this helps me
not put too much tension and smash the
hair down but just get away all of those
little staticky hairs
now that I have everything into place
I’m gonna give a light mist of our
finishing spray just to solidify this
style and help with longevity voila
there you have it our deconstructed
Shenyang

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